Breitling Chronomat B01 42. AB01341
Throughout the 1930s and early 1940s, Breitling replica became synonymous with quality wrist-worn chronographs at attractive prices, especially with the release of the first two-push-button chronograph with start/stop and reset in 1934 surface. In 1942, the Chronomat — a combination of chronograph and mathematics — put Breitling on the horological map of the period. What makes it unique is the circular slide rule created in the two parts of the dial edge and the scale ring. According to a patented design filed in 1940, the two logarithmic scales are opposite each other. One is fixed to the dial and the other rotates at the whim of the user. It allows tachometer, pulsometer and rangefinder calculations. Also (pardon the pun) simple math can be performed. This enables the wearer to solve multiplication, division, interest rates, percentages, productivity and exchange rates. Powered by a Venus 175 movement with an atypical 45-minute chronograph, the Chronomat quickly became very popular.
Over the next few years, the Chronomat underwent various updates, including a moon phase version, which remained Breitling's flagship model until the release of the Navitimer in 1952 at the request of the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA). This new model, named for its navigation and timer properties, is based on the Chronomat, but now includes an inverted outer scale so that the two log scales run parallel in a clockwise direction.
However, I digress because we're talking about the Chronomat here, which was largely unchanged in the 1960s, with only minor tweaks for the contemporary era.
By the 1970s and the time when the mechanical buy fake watches industry was consuming quartz movements, the Chronomat had disappeared from the catalogue. Of course, we shouldn't confuse the Chronomat with the similarly nicknamed Chronomatic. This extremely important timepiece was designed in a joint venture with Heuer, Hamilton-Bruen and Dubois-Depraz. This heralded a new era in watchmaking, as the first-ever automatic chronograph movement (hence the Chronomatic – a fusion of chronograph and automatic).
The next issue was Ernest Schneider's relaunch of the Chronomat on the brand's centennial in 1984. As mentioned, the introduction of cheaper and more accurate quartz movements from Seiko wreaked havoc in the Swiss luxury watch industry, with many brands having to file for bankruptcy. Despite launching its own quartz models, Breitling was unable to avoid this dire situation, with sales plummeting from the mid-1970s onwards. In 1977, it even produced a battery-operated aviation timepiece with an LCD display, which would have seemed heretical a decade earlier.
In 1978, Willie Breitling was forced to close his 96-year-old family business as the Swiss economic system followed, and the overvalued Swiss franc and suppliers disappeared. Despite the closure of the Montblanc factory and the dismissal of all employees, Willy Breitling is determined to keep the Breitling name in the Swiss watch industry as it deserves. Georges Caspari, now Breitling's redundant advertising executive, recommended an old Swiss Army buddy to Willie Breitling. Ernest Schneider is an electronic engineer who has specialized in transmissions in the Swiss Army. Since 1957, he has been a director of Sicura Watch, a growing business with more than 300 employees. This is due to innovations in solar cells and quartz watches. Schneider is also an aviation enthusiast with a pilot's license and his own aircraft. He is a fan of Breitling pilot watches and owns several. When Caspari approached him, he didn't hesitate. 6 April 1979 Ernest Schneider acquires the Breitling Watch Company and all its rights. Willie Breitling tragically passed away after 39 days, but his surname will live on. In 25 years, it has grown into one of the top five luxury watch brands in the world.replica Chopard L.U.C Watches
Ernest Schneider brought his extensive knowledge of quartz watches to Breitling, and the company quickly gained momentum. However, Schneider is well aware of Breitling's brilliant career based on mechanical chronographs. Just as Schneider was considering paying homage to Breitling's legacy, in 1983 he learned that Frecce Tricolori of the Italian Army, the world's most prestigious aerobatic team, was issuing a tender for its official timepiece. Also, the timing is perfect because the watch the Italians need needs to be a mechanical chronograph. Unlike other watch brands that contacted the Italian show team, Schneider did not want to revamp an existing model, but was eager to create one from scratch. This is a great opportunity to design something new built in advertising and integrity from the start. In 1983, the Brecce Tricolori watch was launched.
The case, buttons, crown and bracelet are all new. However, the bezel markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock are the most modern elements. These rider tags are known to have been designed by Schneider to protect the crystal from shock and ensure optimal handling when wearing pilot gloves.
Schneider realized immediately that he had built a potential flagship model for Breitling. In 1984, the brand's centenary, launched this new model.
It was a brave decision, as the current trend is still for ultra-thin, high-precision, inexpensive quartz replica luxury watches. However, the new Chronomat, named in honor of the 1942 original, was a success and has been the brand's main identity ever since, alongside its brother Navitimer. More importantly, it allows Schneider to pay tribute to Breitling's history of innovation and success in the field of mechanical chronographs.
In 2009, Breitling's superb in-house chronograph movement 01 was installed in the new Chronomat, and the next decisive revision came. This polarizing and radical new design was initially derided by the media and Breitling fans, mainly because the bezel numbers didn't seem to match the rest of the watch. However, thanks to its impeccable detailing and finishing, it has become a popular backbone of the Breitling catalogue.
I realize I've glossed over the very successful Chronomat Evo, but as the title suggests, this is really just an evolution of the 1984 model.
At first glance, the new 2020 Chronomat B01 42 may look like a complete redesign of the current catalog Chronomat 44, but it is more related to the style of the 1984 model, which itself is a reintroduction of the original 1942 Chronomat. To me, this is the most successful and compassionate interpretation of what Ernest Schneider originally envisioned 36 years ago.
The case, bezel, dial, markers, buttons and crown have all been redesigned. But what catches the eye first is the outrageous reinterpretation of the classic "Rouleaux" bracelet.
The buttons and crown are more reminiscent of the "Schneider" 1984 Chronomat than anything else Breitling has produced since. They are mounted on a billet section on the side of the case, rising from the case to become the sculpted crown protector. I'm certainly glad they made the unscrewing push ring redundant. It makes quick access to the chronograph impossible unless you keep them open and then it looks awkward. The Half Onion Crown continues to serve its design purpose by providing excellent grip without any discomfort to the user. It also looks refined, with a discrete flying B logo on the outer surface.Jacob & Co. Astronomia Casino
The dial is dynamic and unassuming. The concave sub-dial has a circular pattern that ripples from the center and stops at a third of the way from the periphery. These little details add character and topography to the dial. The sunburst colors used are kaleidoscopes because they capture different light.
The flaps are unidirectional and move with enough resistance to allow easy use without compromising the safety of the intended positioning. Despite the integrated redesign from the Chronomat 44, the rider tab still allows for optimal grip. It's also a more classic design. I don't know why there is only one minute integer mark on the top half of the bezel. I guess this is for symmetry, as it has no practical use I can think of. Only the first 15 minutes of the diver's bezel need to identify each minute. There are some subtle design nuances using polished chamfered edges that really raise the bar for this bezel.
The rest of the 200-meter water-resistant case has been carefully polished. I especially like the 45° top edge, which covers the entire length of the side of the case.